Below are the basic steps to any drywall taping job laid out in the manner that we usually approach a project. Always mix mud throughly. Always make sure all nails and/or screws are recessed slightly below the paper surface of the sheetrock Spotting Nails and Screws Step 1. Using un-thinned but throughly mixed joint compound, get a small amount of mud on the knife and push into the small recess around the screw or nail, completely filling it. Step 2. Holding the knife perpendicular to the wall, scrape the excess off. Be sure the recess is completely covered. Step 3. Allow to dry and repeat coat twice. Note: If, when wiping the excess, you can feel a slight snag, it means the nail or screw is not recessed enough. The recess should be slightly bigger than the head of the screw and only liverpool beds enough to slightly “dent” the paper layer of the sheetrock. Taping Beveled Seams and Butt Joints For taping beveled seams (any place two manufactured ends of sheetrock meet) and butt joints (where cut ends of sheetrock meet), always thin the mud with water. Use enough water until the texture is thin enough to work with easily, but still thick enough to stay on your knife. About 2 cups of water per 5 gal. bucket of joint compound is good to start. Add a little more if needed. Apply a smooth and even coat of mud to the seam using at least a 5″ knife. Make sure there is enough mud under the tape to avoid air bubbles and also fill in any beveled joints. Lightly lay tape on the joint, being sure the space between boards is covered, and cut tape with knife to within 1/2″ of the length of the seam.